Wednesday, January 6, 2010

She Came, She Saw, She Translated, She Conquered










So my first California visitor came, and I couldn’t have asked for a better guest. My well-traveled and Spanish-Savvy friend from college, Rachel, came to visit me and Jorge. I was so happy to see her at the airport and I don’t think I stopped smiling the entire time she was here. Her infectious laugh and amazing hugs (if you you’ve had one from her, you know what I mean about her hugs, they are the best) made the week awesome. I have a handful of close friends who I would call my sisters and I was so excited to be showing one of them my new home here in Peru.



She came bearing gifts…things that I had really missed/needed. Like Bisquick, corn tortillas, chocolate chips, salsa, towels, ziplock bags, bobby pins for blondes, heavy duty bug repellent, sunscreen, books in English, some other things, and her smile. She was a bit if guinea pig as she was my first visitor. I took her a lot of places I have never been before so there were a few bumps in the road. But thankfully she is an amazing traveler who loves the adventure of uncertainty….and she speaks Spanish 1000 times better than I do…so that helped too.



We managed to do the following things during her time here….

She got a walking tour of the Plaza and the Boardwalk along the river. She also got a special plate of welcome Causa made by Jorge…she claimed it was one of the best things she ate all week.











We went to Pilpintuwasi, a refuge for butterflies and a few animals. We had to take a mototaxi to the Port of Nanay where we were hounded by boat drivers wanting to overcharge us for a boat ride that was supposed to only cost us 3 soles for both of us. Rachel used her charming Spanish to get us a good deal and we headed out on the water in a Peki Peki boat.



We floated on the Nanay to a tiny town/village called Padre Cocha.



So there we were, in the middle of nowhere…and the driver said, “Just walk straight.” Okay great. All we saw was a hill, once we got past that hill we saw a few different paths. We took the one that led us straight, and that dead ended.





So we decided to go back to the beginning and go to the right (which was going against the advice of our driver to go ‘straight’).



But eventually that lead us to a little jungle path barely cleared enough for walking space and a little sign with butterflies on it.





At the end of that path we were greeted by a shirtless man who led us across a bridge to the butterflies and other animals.





We had an amazingly kind tour guide who answered all our questions and taught us a lot of crazy things about butterflies, too bad I don’t remember those facts now, sorry. We also got to see the whole butterfly metamorphis from beginning to end.









And then we got a look at the other animals.





Later that day we went to eat Humitas and Juanes.



We had to take a mototaxi to Plaza Veinte Ocho where we my favorite Humitas are cooked by lady and sold on the front sidewalk of her house. Humitas are a little bit like tamales and they always have chicken inside.



Juanes is made by wrapping rice, chicken, an egg, and olive inside of a Bijao Leaf and a placed on the fire to steam. The result is delicious and it is usually served with a spicy puree of cocona which is a local fruit they use to spice up the dishes.



And of course we had chicha morada to wash it all down whish always ends up turning my tongue purple.



Rachel had the chance to meet our friends Anthony and Marlis from Lima. We all had a meal of homemade tacos together, a game of bilingual Scrabble, a killer game of SPOONS, and some shenanigans in the pool.



A few weeks ago my friend Fio had gone to a place where local university students were working on a Manatee Rescue Project and she had the chance to see the Manatees up close and personal. I knew I couldn’t let Rachel pass up the chance to see them too.



So Jorge got us a mototaxi who said he knew exactly where the place was, and he definitely didn’t. After turning around about 10 times and asking local coconut vendors who looked clueless as to where this mysterious “Manatee Place” was, our driver decided it didn’t exist anymore. Awesome. We convinced him that it did and eventually it was us who found the place obscurely hidden. And it definitely turned out to be worth the journey.

Not only did we get to see the manatees, but we had the chance to pet them and feed them. They were amazingly sweet and cute and soft. I loved them.





I think my favorite part was when we saw big bubbles coming up from the water and one of the research students, who spoke very limited English said, “Flatulence.” We laughed so hard, and his friend repeated the word and they said “No really, it’s good. Good for them, good for him, good for me, good for you.” Why yes it is, I couldn’t agree more.



After the farting manatees we had dinner at the fabulous Bucanero and then we headed to the Plaza de Armas so Rachel could take it all in with it’s night time charm. And of course we took her to Texas so she could see one of our favorite hangouts. And later that night we spotted the King of the Frogs, no visit to Iquitos would be complete without meeting him.






One day we took some time to conquer souvenir shopping and had a little drink up in the Eiffel House. I was scheduled to teach in the afternoon so Jorge took Rachel on a little moto tour of the air base and other parts of the city. He also took her to great place to snap a picture of the sunset. I have to say her results were pretty awesome…









We went to Al Fria Al Fuego. This is a fancy floating restaurant Jorge and I have been waiting for the right occasion to try it out. We decided Rachel was a perfect occasion and we ventured out after sunset. It was an amazing place.











They serve regional food, gourmet style and it was all very delicious.





If any of you all come to visit, I would also be willing to consider you a special occasion and go here with you. I’ll start saving up for your visit.




The next day we went on a Jungle excursion on the Amazon. And it was awesome. Here's the line where the Amazon meets the Itayu River.






Some highlights from the day……we participated in a tribal dance, blew poison darts, had encounters with friendly monkeys, friendly snakes (my favorite), tucans, turtles, alligators, sloths, jungle lodges, spiders, mud, giant lilly pads, a quaint canoe ride in a swamp, and huge hungry fish.











































































































Later that night Jorge cooked lomo saltado and at some point we ended up swimming in the rain. The next day Rachel had to leave, and we were really sad. I miss her and the rest of my girls a lot. I love you guys!

Some things I will remember for my next guest…you have to pay an exit fee, small change is essential for everything, jungle juice is not as good for your body as it sounds, and you really need to keep that little white paper they give you when you enter Peru because you can’t leave without it.

Sunday, January 3, 2010

Oh Capitan Mi Capitan




Smarty-pants Jorge passed his test to become a Captain in the Air Force a few months ago and I couldn’t be more proud. His official promotion took place on New Year’s Eve at the Colonel’s house on base. We all gathered for drinks and snacky things and then the Colonel made a lovely speech that I didn’t understand a word of because my Spanish still sucks, especially when I am in high pressured situations. But I did enjoy watching his dancing moustache while he formally addressed the crowd.




Then we toasted all those being promoted. Then it was me who changed Jorge's “Caponas.” They are the thingys that rest on the shoulders of his uniform. I changed them from the Lieutenant stripes to the Captain stripes. Oooo la la!



And then, as is tradition in the Peruvian Air Force, I got to pour the first drops of champagne on his new caponas. Then everyone else poured it on him too…I’m not sure exactly why they do this, but I don’t really need an explanation because it was totally fun. Congrats Captain Coco!







After Jorge’s promotion we hit the town with the rest of the Air Force gang in a big ol’ bus, which I think might be one of only two buses that I have seen in this whole city. We went to a resort/restaraunt on the outskirts of Iquitos.









And of course there were plenty of crazy Peruvian props to really give the night all of the spirit it deserved.










There was a live band and plenty of dancing. And at one point the stilt clowns and jokers showed up, but this time they brought a giant shark with them.






Jorge was in charge of the champagne geyser, good job babe. Yet another great reason to promote you to Captain.



We had tons of fun and I hope you all had a great New Year’s too. More importantly I hope you are all blessed this year. I know a lot of beautiful people in my life who have had a year that was more than a “little rough”…so Salud Chicos! To a New Year!

Saturday, January 2, 2010

Yellow Underwear and Burning Dolls = New Year’s



What marks the New Year here in Iquitos, Peru? Well wearing yellow underwear and burning life size dolls in the street of course. What, you guys didn’t do that on New Year’s? Okay well, neither did I. But a lot of the locals here did. The unofficial color here for New Year’s is Yellow. Everywhere I went I could see yellow balloons, streamers and ribbons hanging in the doorways, in the streets, and even on mototaxis. See if you can find the yellowness below…
















In the weeks leading up to New Year’s I began to see the marketplaces filling up with yellow underwear. Everywhere I looked, underwear, yellow, hanging, folded, boxed, everywhere. Apparently it is a tradition to wear a pair for good luck and prosperity on New Year’s.






I didn’t actually see this happen but apparently people use old clothes and stuff them with paper and then burn them on New Year’s. The reasoning behind this is to burn away the old year and start with a new beginning. Sounds good to me. I was only able to capture a few of the dolls on a drive through town, too bad I didn’t get to see one burning!